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Церкви Лалибела

Маленький город Лалибела в Эфиопии является родиной одного из самых поразительных священных участков в мире: одиннадцать высеченных из камня церквей, каждая из которых вырезана полностью из одного единственного блока гранита с крышей на уровне земли. В настоящее время Лалибела является важным туристическим центром Эфиопии, привлекая сотни тысяч туристов. Лалибела — пыльный сельский городок, который до недавнего времени больше напоминал деревню (только недавно в город было проведено электричество). В городе есть немного моторизованных транспортных средств, отсутствуют бензоколонки и асфальт на улицах. Изолированный от современного мира, город, тем не менее, имеет древнюю историю. Из 8-10 000 человек, проживающих в Лалибела, более чем 1 000 являются священниками. Религия играет самую важную роль в жизни города, с регулярными процессиями и празднованиями религиозных праздников. Город также обладает экстраординарной религиозной архитектурой.

История

Город Лалибела был первоначально известен как Роха. Город был переименован в честь  короля Лалибела 12-ого столетия, который приказал построить экстраординарные церкви города. Лалибела был представителем династии Загве, которая захватила эфиопский трон приблизительно в 1000 году нашей эры. Когда его конкуренты начали усиливаться у власти, Лалибела искал поддержку сильной эфиопской Православной церкви, строя церкви в этом маленьком городе. Цель короля Лалибела состояла в том, чтобы создать Новый Иерусалим для тех, кто не мог совершить паломничество в Святую Землю (и создать священный город, чтобы конкурировать с сильным Аксумом, где хранился Ковчег). Согласно некоторым сообщениям, он посещал Святую Землю сам и был вдохновлен тем, что увидел там. Но эфиопский король не пытался скопировать церкви Святой Земли; фактически, архитектура Лалибела стала уникальным явлением в религиозной архитектуре. Церкви Лалибела не были построены — они были выкопаны и высечены. Создание каждой церкви начиналось с того, что вокруг каменной глыбы прорывалась широкая траншея, затем  кропотливо высекался интерьер. Самая большая церковь имеет 40 футов в высоту. Согласно популярной легенде ангелы каждую ночь спускались, чтобы увидеть, на каком месте рабочие закончили свою работу. Одна из церквей, Бет Марьям, содержит каменный столб, на котором король Лалибела написал «тайны строительства церквей». Он покрыт старыми тканями, и только священники могут читать текст на нем. Король хотел создать святое место беспрецедентной красоты, которое стало бы символом перехода короля в религиозную жизнь. После 20 лет правления, король Лалибела отрекся от своего престола, чтобы стать отшельником, живя в пещере и питаясь только корнями растений и овощами. По сей день, эфиопские христиане считают короля Лалибела одним из их самых великих святых. Церкви находились в непрерывном использовании с момента окончания строительства в 12-ом столетии. Первыми европейцами, которые увидели эти экстраординарные церкви, были португальскими исследователями, прибывшими в 1520-ых годах в Эфиопию, один из которых отметил в своем журнале, что церкви были настолько красивы и необычны по своей архитектуре, что первые читатели его описаний обвиняли исследователя в предвзятости.

Описание

Крыши церквей Лалибела находятся на уровне земли, к ним можно спуститься по лестнице, которая приводит в узкую траншею, окружающую церковь. Церкви связаны туннелями и проходами. Внутренние столбы церквей являются гладкими из-за постоянного прикосновения рук паломников. Вырезанные в камне церкви имеют простой, но красивый дизайн; они также украшены крестами, свастиками (восточный религиозный мотив) и даже различными исламскими узорами. У нескольких церквей также есть настенные картины. За каждую церковь отвечает один монах, которого можно увидеть в дверном проеме церкви, одетым в красочные парчовые одежды.  Существует 11 церквей, вырезанных в Лалибела, самой захватывающей является Bet Giorgis (Св. Георгий). Расположенная на западной стороне группы церквей, она вырезана из камня, имеет высоту 40 футов, а ее крыша имеет форму греческого креста. Она была создана после смерти Лалибела (1220 г.) по приказу его вдовы, как мемориал в память о святом короле. Таким образом, планы Лалибела в создании Нового Иерусалима свершились.

В отличие от некоторых других церквей, церковь Св. Георгия имеет простой и неприхотливый интерьер. Занавес ограждает святой участок церкви, и перед ним обычно стоит священник, показывающий книги и картины посетителям. В тени одной из крестообразных церквей находится табот (миниатюрное изображение ветхозаветного ковчега; священная реликвия у христиан Эфиопии). Одному исследователю разрешили открыть табот, и он увидел, что табот пуст. Никто не мог объяснить, что случилось с содержимым ковчега. В «Северной Группе» через главную дорогу от церкви Св. Георгия, находится самая известная церковь — Бете Медхане Алем, крестообразная церковь Лалибела, и считается самой большой монолитной церковью в мире. Эта церковь также считается копией церкви Пресвятой Девы Марии Сиона в Аксуме. Бете Медхане Алем связана проходами и туннелями к Бете Марьям (Церковь Пресвятой Девы Марии), возможно, самой старой из церквей Лалибелы. В восточной стене церкви можно увидеть множество вырезанных окон в вертикальной линии. Среди деталей оформления интерьера церкви можно увидеть Звезду Давида и мальтийский крест, Солнце с улыбчивым лицом человека, изображение Марии на осле, сопровождаемой Иосифом, и сцену Возвещения. Рядом с Бете Марьям расположена Бете Голгофа, известная своим художественным оформлением, которое включает резные фигурки святых в натуральную величину, размещенные в стенах церкви. Также в этой церкви находится могила короля Лалибела, на которой стоит драпированный золотом Ковчег. Западная группа включает Часовню Селасси и Могилу Адама.

«Восточная Группа» включает:

  • Бете Амануель (возможно прежняя королевская часовня);
  • Бете Меркориос (которая, возможно, раньше была тюрьмой);
  • Бете Абба Либанос; и
  • Бете Гавриил-Рафаель (возможно, бывший королевский дворец), связанный с королевской пекарней.

Немного далее расположен монастырь Ашетан Марьям и церковь Йимрехане Кристос (возможно датируемая 11-ым столетием). Спуск к церквям Лалибела требует некоторой сноровки от паломников. Ступени могут быть крутыми и высокими. Некоторые монахи помогают спускаться по ступеням, и впоследствии они заботятся об обуви паломников, которую необходимо снять при входе в церковь. Многие туристы и паломники в Лалибела нанимают местного гида, который показывает достопримечательности города, включая известные церкви Лалибела.

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